A Nice Cup of Tea

Saturday Essay, Evening Standard, 12 January 1946

A Nice Cup of Tea (1946) by George OrwellIf you look up ‘tea’ in the first cookery book that comes to hand you will probably find that it is unmentioned; or at most you will find a few lines of sketchy instructions which give no ruling on several of the most important points.

This is curious, not only because tea is one of the main stays of civilisation in this country, as well as in Eire, Australia and New Zealand, but because the best manner of making it is the subject of violent disputes.

When I look through my own recipe for the perfect cup of tea, I find no fewer than eleven outstanding points. On perhaps two of them there would be pretty general agreement, but at least four others are acutely controversial. Here are my own eleven rules, every one of which I regard as golden:

First of all, one should use Indian or Ceylonese tea. China tea has virtues which are not to be despised nowadays — it is economical, and one can drink it without milk — but there is not much stimulation in it. One does not feel wiser, braver or more optimistic after drinking it. Anyone who has used that comforting phrase ‘a nice cup of tea’ invariably means Indian tea.

Secondly, tea should be made in small quantities — that is, in a teapot. Tea out of an urn is always tasteless, while army tea, made in a cauldron, tastes of grease and whitewash. The teapot should be made of china or earthenware. Silver or Britannia-ware teapots produce inferior tea and enamel pots are worse; though curiously enough a pewter teapot (a rarity nowadays) is not so bad.

Thirdly, the pot should be warmed beforehand. This is better done by placing it on the hob than by the usual method of swilling it out with hot water.

Fourthly, the tea should be strong. For a pot holding a quart, if you are going to fill it nearly to the brim, six heaped teaspoons would be about right. In a time of rationing, this is not an idea that can be realised on every day of the week, but I maintain that one strong cup of tea is better than twenty weak ones. All true tea-lovers not only like their tea strong, but like it a little stronger with each year that passes — a fact which is recognized in the extra ration issued to old-age pensioners.

Fifthly, the tea should be put straight into the pot. No strainers, muslin bags or other devices to imprison the tea. In some countries teapots are fitted with little dangling baskets under the spout to catch the stray leaves, which are supposed to be harmful. Actually one can swallow tea-leaves in considerable quantities without ill effect, and if the tea is not loose in the pot it never infuses properly.

Sixthly, one should take the teapot to the kettle and not the other way about. The water should be actually boiling at the moment of impact, which means that one should keep it on the flame while one pours. Some people add that one should only use water that has been freshly brought to the boil, but I have never noticed that it makes any difference.

Seventhly, after making the tea, one should stir it, or better, give the pot a good shake, afterwards allowing the leaves to settle.

Eighthly, one should drink out of a good breakfast cup — that is, the cylindrical type of cup, not the flat, shallow type. The breakfast cup holds more, and with the other kind one’s tea is always half cold — before one has well started on it.

Ninthly, one should pour the cream off the milk before using it for tea. Milk that is too creamy always gives tea a sickly taste.

Tenthly, one should pour tea into the cup first. This is one of the most controversial points of all; indeed in every family in Britain there are probably two schools of thought on the subject.

The milk-first school can bring forward some fairly strong arguments, but I maintain that my own argument is unanswerable. This is that, by putting the tea in first and stirring as one pours, one can exactly regulate the amount of milk whereas one is liable to put in too much milk if one does it the other way round.

Lastly, tea — unless one is drinking it in the Russian style — should be drunk without sugar. I know very well that I am in a minority here. But still, how can you call yourself a true tea-lover if you destroy the flavour of your tea by putting sugar in it? It would be equally reasonable to put in pepper or salt.

Tea is meant to be bitter, just as beer is meant to be bitter. If you sweeten it, you are no longer tasting the tea, you are merely tasting the sugar; you could make a very similar drink by dissolving sugar in plain hot water.

Some people would answer that they don’t like tea in itself, that they only drink it in order to be warmed and stimulated, and they need sugar to take the taste away. To those misguided people I would say: Try drinking tea without sugar for, say, a fortnight and it is very unlikely that you will ever want to ruin your tea by sweetening it again.

These are not the only controversial points to arise in connection with tea drinking, but they are sufficient to show how subtilised the whole business has become.

There is also the mysterious social etiquette surrounding the teapot (why is it considered vulgar to drink out of your saucer, for instance?) and much might be written about the subsidiary uses of tealeaves, such as telling fortunes, predicting the arrival of visitors, feeding rabbits, healing burns and sweeping the carpet.

It is worth paying attention to such details as warming the pot and using water that is really boiling, so as to make quite sure of wringing out of one’s ration the twenty good, strong cups of that two ounces, properly handled, ought to represent.

◊ ◊ ◊ ◊ ◊

Source: CW18-2857

Tags: , , , , , , ,

7 Responses to A Nice Cup of Tea

  1. Jen@ blooming tea on February 8, 2011 at 2:17 am

    Great post ! Yeah, there are people adding sugar to their tea, and it’s not the right way to enjoy it, I totally agree with you, if you’re a serious tea lover, you wouldn’t do that.

  2. mf65 on May 26, 2011 at 11:18 am

    “I totally agree with you” ….. I hope you realise that George Orwell died in 1950.

  3. SteampunkSweetheart on May 31, 2011 at 3:42 pm

    If one is having tea in the Russian style, one uses jam or honey, and maybe lemon. And milk goes in coffee, not in tea.

  4. Jill Carpenter on June 19, 2011 at 1:19 pm

    So where is “Yorkshire” tea from? Are the tea leaves from India or China? I do know a Yorkshire cup of tea is very strong and stimulating. Being now in Florida, I cannot investigate this first hand. Please help! There is nothing to beat a “good cup of tea”.

  5. E.A. Bucchianeri on July 15, 2011 at 5:21 pm

    I agree, tea is much better heated on the stove, and I don’t take my tea with sugar, nor do I like it too creamy, must have it strong.

    Since we’re on the subject, I have an interesting story about how tea was introduced to England, I thought it was a Portuguese legend, but according to Wikipedia, half appears true! For your amusement, I shall relate what I heard here in the sunny land of Portugal.

    Catherine Henrietta of Braganza (1638-1705) brought a crate of her favourite drink on her way to her nuptuals with King Charles II. With their trade routes in the far east, the Portuguese had long been introduced to the delightful brew before the English. In Portugese, it’s called “cha”, the same word as the Chinese use. Pronounced “shah”, in case you were wondering. Interesting to note the Irish Gaelic word for tea is very similar to the Portuguese “cha”, but I digress. To return to our story, the various crates containing Catherine’s belongings were marked with letters, A, B, C, etc. and the crate full of “Cha” was marked…well… with a “T”! The name stuck, and the English called the new drink Tea.

  6. admin on July 15, 2011 at 6:06 pm

    Cute story and new to me. Thanks!

  7. Mr Andrew Fereday on May 18, 2012 at 2:32 am

    The only thing that I would add is that if you are in a hard water area, it’s worthwhile filtering the water before boiling. Hard water can produce a layer of scum on the tea and leave it with an unpleasant taste…

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

William Makepeace Thackeray – A Little Dinner at Timmins’s (1848)

Punch, 27 May–29 July 1848 Table of Contents I - II - III - IV - V - VI - VII ◊ ◊ ◊ ◊ ◊ I. Mr....